Rangdum

A wild, wind-scoured cluster of low-rise Ladakhi houses is the first Buddhist village you encounter on your way from Kargil to Zanskar. To the west the mountains Nun and Kun rise spectacularly white-capped. And eastwards the horizon is an arid pastiche of oddly contorted strata fronted by the dot of Rangdum Gompa.

About 1km after Pensi La, the rugged pass that divides the Suru and Zanskar valleys, there are spectacular views down onto the long, glistening white Drang Drung glacier. Further down, the Zanskar Valley broadens with several small villages in grassy parcels of farmland hemmed by sheer mountain walls. Phey has a small gompa and homestay. At Sani, Zanskar's oldest Gompa is a small two storey prayer hall ringed by a tunnelled cloister and a whitewashed stone wall studded with stupas.

Where you can Stay
Zanskar Express Guesthouse
J&K Tourism Bunglow
Nun-Kun Delux Camp

Pahalgam

In the piligrim season of June to August this quaint town is packed with Amarnath Yatri, but in early September it makes a fine spot for gentle walks or pony treks.

Sights to see
The Baisarn and Dhabyan Viewpoints
Tulyan Lake
Mamleshwar Temple

Things you can do
Jawahar Institute Ph:243129 organises fair value multiday treks, skiing, white-water rafting by Highland Excursions Ph: 01942488061

Padum

The dusty little capital of Zanskar with an awesome mountain backdrop. This cosy little town has everything you need in a crossroads.

The tourist office Ph:01983/245017

Sights to see

The crumbling 'Old Town', where we find large stupas.
To the north a more traditional village of Pibiting has a small gompa dwarfed by a large hilltop stupa topped with a becon lamp.

Around Padum
Karsha gompa - zanskar's largest Buddhist monastry, which dates back to atleast the 10th century. It's a jumble of whitewashed blocks rising almost vertically up the red rock of a mountain cliff. Concrete steps lead to the upper colister and prayer hall with cracked old murals and wobbly wooden columns. French charity Solidarijeune (www.solidarijeune.com) helps with it's upkeep.

Zangla & stongde - A drive to Zangla makes a fine excursion from Padum. The highlight of the trip is Stongde Gompa crowning a bird's-eye perch 300m above the valley, 12km from Padum. the entrance to Zangla is guarded by a small hilltop fortress ruin.

Raru & Bardan - Trekking between Zanskar and Darcha generally starts from Raru. The route from Padum passes the Bardan Gompa sitting spectacularly above the valley on a rocky outcrop.


Things you can do
Horserides
Treks

Where you can stay
Phukthar Guesthouse Ph:01983/245226
Hotel Ibex Ph:01983/245214
Gakyi Hotel

Getting there and away
The buses are unpredictable to this place. Jeeps and Taxis are also available

Kargil

Kargil made infamous for the Kargil war that took place here claiming many brave soldiers lives on either side. This sleepy little town of Kargil can be summarized merely as a change of transport between Leh and Srinagar. Everything travellers might need is conveniently found within three short blocks of the bustling Main bazaar, with its PCOs and Internet Cafes. The bus and taxi stand is 100m towards the river, past the useful State Bank of India ATM.

Tucked behind the busstand is the Tourist Reception Center Ph:01985/232721.

Where you can stay
J&KTDC Tourist Bungalow Ph:01985/232328
Hotel Siachen Ph:01985/232221

Where you can eat
Numerous simple dhabas line in the Main Bazaar.

Getting there and away
Buses from Leh depart at 4:30 a.m. Jeeps and taxis are also an option.

Drass Valley

Drass Valley is as close as you can get to the Line of control. In 2005 meterologists have recorded a temperature of -60 degrees centigrade making it the second coldest place in the world. tourists stop to visit the various battlefields of 1999 Indo-Pak war.

There are a few dhabas here but it is better not to stay for too long.