Around Leh

Indus Valley villages form green oases amid dun-coloured semi-deserts backed by a craggy dry mountains. Several superb medieval monastries make interesting day trips by hired motorcycles, jeep or public bus.

SOUTH OF LEH

Stok Ladakh's former royal family now live a comparitively modest life, dividing their time between a private mansion in Manali and the stately Stok Palace.
Sightseeing
Stok Palace
Stok Palace Museum
Stok Abagon
Stok Gompa
EventsTse-Chu festival in feb/mar
Adventure
trek king point
Where you can stay
Hotel Kangri ph:01982-201009
Kalden Guesthouse ph:01982-242057
Hotel Highland ph:01982-242005
Hotel Skittsal ph:01982-242051; www.skittsal.com


Matho Sakya-Buddhist Matho Gompa is a colourfully stratified ridge above Matho Village.
During the monastry's famous Matho Nagrang festival blindfolded monks perform acrobatics, engage a ritual acts of self-mutilation and make predictions for the coming year.
Spituk, Phey & Zingchen
Skodong Lakhang shrine
Chikang hosts a yellow hatted statue of Tsongkhapa who inspired Gelukpa Buddhism.
Palden Lama temple
For treks Zingchen makes a better starting point than Spituk village


WEST OF LEH

Phyang
Phyang is a emerand splash of green-hemmed barley fields layered for miles up a side valley. There are stupendous views back towards the snow-topped pyramid of Skot Kangri. The white and ochre Phyang Gompa Photogenically dominates the village center despite some earthquake damage. Behind, dzos graze on idyllic meadowland and a beautiful lane follows a rock escarpment past traditional homes.

Phyang's only accomodation Hidden North Guesthouse ph:01982-226007; www.hiddennorth.com


Chiling For a feast of colourful geology take the dramatic riverside ledge road up the deep Zanskar canyon from 400km. It was founded for the copper craftsmen who had originally arrived to build Shey Palace's big Buddha statue but never went home. Today Zanskar in a major trekking point between Lamayuru and the Markha Valley.

Basgo Capital of lower Ladakh until the Ladakhi kingdoms united in 1940, Basgo's ancient chortens whisper hints of its antiquity. Rising above the village on a surreal collection of eroded earthen pinnicles are remnant stubs of once great cithedel walls, along with a largely derelict mud-walled palace and two brilliant temples, recently stabilised with help from UNESCO. The Upper Chamba Gompa has a spectacularly restored mural work covering walls and ceilings around two-storey statue of Maitreya, whose expression embodies the spirit of detachment. Slightly downhill, behind the palace remnants, darker and even more atmospheric Sar-Zung Temple hosts another oversized statue of Maitreya and a library of wrapped scriptures.

Basgo's only accomodation, the pleasasnt two room ToGoGuesthouse ph: 01982-225104

Likir
Starting point for the Sham trek
Likir Gompa
Museum
Maitreya Statue

Accomodation
Old Likir Guesthouse ph: 01982-227505
Chhuma Guesthouse ph: 01982-
Norboo spon Guesthouse ph: 01982-227137
Hotel Lhukhil www.hotelhukhil.com

Sham
A spectacular 30 minute detour from Likir winds threough a Nevada like scenery
Accomodation
Toro Guesthouse
Lungchay Guesthouse ph: 01982-240024

 

Leh - come fall in love with nature

A dagger of steep rocky ridge plunging towards the main bazaar is topped by a dramatic palace, fort and gompa. Very few places in India could capture your heart and make you fall in love like Leh does with its inviting green barley fields amidst mudbrick houses. As tranquil place to visit as it is friendly, Leh captures its tourists with its unpretentious beauty.

Tourist Information

Tourist Office ph:01982-253482
Henk Thoma's Leh valley map could be really useful to navigate around the area.
Ladakh trekking maps www.abram.ch/Izmmaps.php

Sights to see

Palace Ridge
Leh Palace
Palace Gompas
Tsemo Fort
Old City
Chowkhang Gompa
Shanti Stupa
Stupas
LEDEG
Women's Alliance
Sankar Gompa
Donkey Sanctuary
Hall of Fame

What you can do
Yoga and Meditation
Mahabodhi Center ph:01982-253689 www.mahabodhi-ladakh.org
Meditation Center ph:01982-264372
Open Ladakh ph:09419886135 www.openladakh.com

MassagesMountaineering
Rafting and Kayaking
Trekking - Per-person fees ranging from US$50 to US$400 paid directly to IMF (www.indmount.org)

Volunteering - TELF teachers are in demand visit www.beautifulworld.org.uk
- www.secmol.org/ecotourism
- rubbish collecting trek www.overlandescape.com/cleaningtrek.php

Organised Tours
Old Town Walking Tours
Jeep and car Tours
Trekking tours
Rafting
Himalayan Journeys ph:01982-250591; Jeeps and Rafting
Lhasi Karpo Ecological Trek & Tours ph:01982-255644; www.eco-ladakh.com; Old Town Walk Tours
Overland Escape ph:01982-250858; www.overlandescape.com; multiskilled agency
Snow Leapord Trails ph:01982-252074; www.snowleopardtrails.com; Treks
Splash Adventures ph:01982-254870; Rafting Specialists
Wild East Adventure ph:01982-250505; www.wildeastadventure.com; Trekking
World Adventure ph:01982-251910;
XploreLadakh ; www.xploreladakh.com
Yama Adventures ph:01982-250833; www.yamatreks.com


Shopping
Tibetian thangkas, Ladakhi hats turquoise jewellery, kashmiri shawls and various Nepali, Tibetan and Chinese knick-knacks
LeDEG ph:01982-253221; www.ledeg.org
Women's Alliance ph:01982-250293; www.isec.org
Handicrafts Industrial cooperative shop in Old Fort Rd
Wamda Wood Craving in Old Fort Road
Gol Market and Moti market

Getting there and away
AIR
Indian Airlines ph:01982-252076; Fort Rd
Jet Airways ph:01982-250999; Main Bazaar
Kingfisher Airlines www.flykingfisher.com
BUSES
Buses are available from Manali, Srinagar, Kargil
Taxis and Jeeps are for hire, so are motorcycles to go around the place.

also see Around Leh

Ladakh - The cool place to hangout

Spectacularly jagged, arid mountains enfold this magical, Buddhist ex-kingdom. In summer hikers trek between archetypal gompas that dramatically crown rocky outcrops amid whitewashed stupas and meditational mani walls(Tibetian stone walls with sacred inscriptions). Colourful fluttering prayer flags send their spiritual messages metaphorically off into the mountain breeze. Prayer wheels spun clockwise release more merit-making mantras. Gompa interiors are colourfully awash with murals and statuary of numerous bodhisattvas.
Ladhak's extrem climate divides the region and its work routines in a short span of summer. Traditional mudbrick homesteads are large, comfortable and self-sufficient in fuel and food. The very limited cultivable land is used to its full extent by carefully channelling the glacier-melt mountain streams. Ladakh's remarkably well balanced traditional society has so much to teach the west in terms of ecological awareness. In summer people pile their flat roofs with alphalpha grass to feed the live stock through harsh winters. Winter in Ladakh is icey cold and few tourists dare venture here at this time of the year.
   
Ladakh is a high altitude desert famous for the inspirational purity of its crystal blue skies. With low percipitation and sunshine for an average 300 days a year. In winters temperature falls below -20C
Permits and Other Information
Whether or not permits is required, always carry your passport when travelling around Ladakh as checkpoints are fairly common. To visit Nubra Valley, Panggong Tso, DhaHanu, Tso Moriri or the upper Indus beyond Upshi, you need an inner line permit. This is usually easy to obtain within one working day through a Leh travel agent for Rs100. Make multiple photocopies of your passport and permit to give to police checkpoints enroute.

NOTE:
- Leh and eastren Ladakh don't suffer any of the violence of the Kashmir Valley.
- As most of Ladakh lies above 3000m flying in visitors invariable suffer some symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness.


What you can do:

Summer in Ladakh is an adventure playground for outdoor types cimbing, rafting and high altitude trekking.

Trekking in Ladakh

Zingchen-Rumbak-Stok : A 2 day trek with one 4900m pass, possible without equipment and guide.
Sham Trek : A 4 day trek with many homestays enroute.
Ascent of Stok Kangri : A 5 day trek from Stok, and climbs to 6120m. This trek requires a guide and mountain trekking equipment. Requires a IMF permit of US$50 per person.
Markha Valley Trek : a 6 to 7 day trek from Chiling to Hemis with a 5030m pass. We find seasonal parachute cafes or homestays on route but it is always suggested to bring in tent and supplies.
Lamayuru Treks 
Tso Kar-Tso Moriri : a 4 to 5 days (8 days if starting from Rumtse) lonely trek with no permanent settlements enroute. Prepare for subzero temperaatures and bring all the essential gear and a good guide. Four passes over 4700m.

Mountain Tool Kit
- Warming, insulating clothing (even in summer)
- hat, lip care, UV proof sunglasses and sunscreen
- a good quality torch
- plenty of paracetamol and antibiotics for Acute Mountain Sickness.
- campers need sleeping bags
- Photographers will find polarising filters useful to reduce glare.

Internet Resources
www.jk tourism.org/ladakh/index.html
www.reachladakh.com
www.leh.nic.in - Gives you the open/closed status of Srinagar and Manali.

Sonamarg

A one street settlement of Sonamarg occupies a delightful mountain valley setting, but in July and August its poorly maintained hotels ratchet up their prices.

Sights and Activities
Pony riding to the Thajiwas Glacier
Piligrims heading to Amarnath depart from Baltal Camp

Where you can stay
J&KTDC Tourist Bungalows Ph: 0194/2417215
Hotel Glacier Heights Ph:0194/2417215

How to get there
Buses to Srinagar

Rangdum

A wild, wind-scoured cluster of low-rise Ladakhi houses is the first Buddhist village you encounter on your way from Kargil to Zanskar. To the west the mountains Nun and Kun rise spectacularly white-capped. And eastwards the horizon is an arid pastiche of oddly contorted strata fronted by the dot of Rangdum Gompa.

About 1km after Pensi La, the rugged pass that divides the Suru and Zanskar valleys, there are spectacular views down onto the long, glistening white Drang Drung glacier. Further down, the Zanskar Valley broadens with several small villages in grassy parcels of farmland hemmed by sheer mountain walls. Phey has a small gompa and homestay. At Sani, Zanskar's oldest Gompa is a small two storey prayer hall ringed by a tunnelled cloister and a whitewashed stone wall studded with stupas.

Where you can Stay
Zanskar Express Guesthouse
J&K Tourism Bunglow
Nun-Kun Delux Camp

Pahalgam

In the piligrim season of June to August this quaint town is packed with Amarnath Yatri, but in early September it makes a fine spot for gentle walks or pony treks.

Sights to see
The Baisarn and Dhabyan Viewpoints
Tulyan Lake
Mamleshwar Temple

Things you can do
Jawahar Institute Ph:243129 organises fair value multiday treks, skiing, white-water rafting by Highland Excursions Ph: 01942488061

Padum

The dusty little capital of Zanskar with an awesome mountain backdrop. This cosy little town has everything you need in a crossroads.

The tourist office Ph:01983/245017

Sights to see

The crumbling 'Old Town', where we find large stupas.
To the north a more traditional village of Pibiting has a small gompa dwarfed by a large hilltop stupa topped with a becon lamp.

Around Padum
Karsha gompa - zanskar's largest Buddhist monastry, which dates back to atleast the 10th century. It's a jumble of whitewashed blocks rising almost vertically up the red rock of a mountain cliff. Concrete steps lead to the upper colister and prayer hall with cracked old murals and wobbly wooden columns. French charity Solidarijeune (www.solidarijeune.com) helps with it's upkeep.

Zangla & stongde - A drive to Zangla makes a fine excursion from Padum. The highlight of the trip is Stongde Gompa crowning a bird's-eye perch 300m above the valley, 12km from Padum. the entrance to Zangla is guarded by a small hilltop fortress ruin.

Raru & Bardan - Trekking between Zanskar and Darcha generally starts from Raru. The route from Padum passes the Bardan Gompa sitting spectacularly above the valley on a rocky outcrop.


Things you can do
Horserides
Treks

Where you can stay
Phukthar Guesthouse Ph:01983/245226
Hotel Ibex Ph:01983/245214
Gakyi Hotel

Getting there and away
The buses are unpredictable to this place. Jeeps and Taxis are also available

Kargil

Kargil made infamous for the Kargil war that took place here claiming many brave soldiers lives on either side. This sleepy little town of Kargil can be summarized merely as a change of transport between Leh and Srinagar. Everything travellers might need is conveniently found within three short blocks of the bustling Main bazaar, with its PCOs and Internet Cafes. The bus and taxi stand is 100m towards the river, past the useful State Bank of India ATM.

Tucked behind the busstand is the Tourist Reception Center Ph:01985/232721.

Where you can stay
J&KTDC Tourist Bungalow Ph:01985/232328
Hotel Siachen Ph:01985/232221

Where you can eat
Numerous simple dhabas line in the Main Bazaar.

Getting there and away
Buses from Leh depart at 4:30 a.m. Jeeps and taxis are also an option.

Drass Valley

Drass Valley is as close as you can get to the Line of control. In 2005 meterologists have recorded a temperature of -60 degrees centigrade making it the second coldest place in the world. tourists stop to visit the various battlefields of 1999 Indo-Pak war.

There are a few dhabas here but it is better not to stay for too long.

Srinagar

Srinagar, with its glassy lake and colorful houseboats with its delightfully mild summer climate makes it India's top most tourist attraction. But visiting Srinagar without throughly checking the latest security situation is foolhardy.

Sights to see
Dal Lake
Parks and Gardens
ShalimarBagh
Nishat Bagh
Pari Mahal
Cheshmashahi Garden
Botanical Garden
Tulip Garden
Old City
Khanqah of Shah-i-Hamadan
Jama Masjid
Pir Dastgir Sahib
Rozabal
Naqshband Sahib
Hari Parbat
Sri Pratap Singh Museum
Shankaracharya Hill
Hazratbal
Around Srinagar
Sonamarg
Pahalgam
Gulmarg - India's famous ski-center
Srinagar to Kargil is a truely beautiful 200km drive takes you from Kashmir's very alpine valleys over the remarkable double loops of the 3529m zoji La.

What you can do
golf
Organised Tours

Where you can stay
Houseboats - Houseboat Owners Association Ph:0194/2450326
Or you can always stay in a hotel
Humza Hotel Ph:0194/2500857; www.incrediblekashmir.net
Hotel Akbar Ph:0194/2500507; hotelakbar.com
Residency Hotel Ph:0194/22473702; ww.hotelresidencykashmir.com
Lalit Grand Palace Ph:0194/2501001; www.thelalit.com
Where you can eat
Punjabi Rasoi (veg) Boulevard
Mughal Durbar (veg) Residency Rd
Lhasa Restaurent (veg & non-veg) Boulevard Lane 2
Coffee Arabica (coffee and cupcakes) MA Rd

Getting there and back
Airlines
Indian airlines Ph:0194/2450247; Shahenshah Palace Hotel
Jet Airways Ph:0194/2480801; Court rd
Jetlite Ph:0194/2106750; www.jetlite.com
Kingfisher www.flykingfisher.com
SpiceJet www.spicejet.com
 

Suru Valley

The main road tto Zanskar winds prettily threough the fertile valley of Suru Valley, where many rustic stone built villages sit beneath a panorama of high valley walls and mountains that reach a thrilling climax with amazing views of Nun and Kun. Perhaps the best panorama is approaching Panikhar. A steep but satisfying day trek crosses from the Panikhar bypass road over the 3900m Lago La then descends to Parkachik, from where a bus returns to Kargil at 7 am. Just beyond the Parkachik a large dust blackened glacier crumbles into the Suru River as the road starts to wind up to the splendid Pensi La.

Where you can stay
J&K Bunglows

Getting there and away
Busses from Kargil to Panikar and busses from Parkachik towards Zanskar can deliver you to this place.
 

Visiting Jammu - City of Temples

Founded in 1730, Jammu and Kashmir's winter capital is still the major halt  for piligrims enroute to Vaishno Devi temple. It was the seat of power of the Dogra Rajas. Jammu lies on the bank of river Tawi. On the northern bank, climbling steadily from the bus station through narrow bazaar lanes to the Mubarak Mandi. While the train station the airport are on the southern bank.

Sights to see
NOTE: Bags, cameras, mobile phones and even pens might need to be deposited with security guards before visiting any of the main sites.

On the Northern Bank of Tawi
Raghunath Mandi
Ranbireshwar Mandir
Gupawala Mandir
Mubarak Mandi
Amar Mahal Palace

On the Southern Bank of Tawi
Bahu Fort
Aquarium
Har-ki-Paori Mandir
Mahamaya Mandir

Across Jammu Srinagar Route
Vaishno Devi shrine on a multishrouded  mountain of Tikri
Waterfalls of Udhampur
Kud and Panitop woods
Paragliding in Sanasar
Baglihar Dam
Jawaharlal Tunnel
The Titanic Viewpoint across the Kashmir Valley
Qazigund
Awantipora
Pampore

Where you can stay
Vaishnavi Dham Ph:0191/2473275; www.maavaishnodevi.org
Fortune Hotel Ph:0191/2561415; www.fortunehotels.in
Hari Niwas Palace Hotel Ph:0191/2543303; www.hariniwaspalace.com
Where you can eat
Jewels's Fastfood (veg & non-veg burgers, dosas, thalis)
Falak (Indian food) KC Residency Hotel, Residency Rd.
Cafe Coffe Day (veg & non-veg)

Getting there and Back
Airlines :
Indian Airlines Ph:0191/2456086 - J&K Tourism Complex
www.goair.in;
Jet Airways Ph:0191/2574312 - KC Residency Hotel
SpiceJet www.spicejet.com
Trains are available from Delhi, Amritsar, Indore, Agra, Kolkatta, Varanasi.
Buses are available from major cities as well.

Jammu and Kashmir - Paradise Lost

This land has been called a paradise on earth by many who travelled here. The serene landscapes, the snow capped mountains, the fertile valleies blooming in the youth of spring, truely make us feel that Gods too came down to roam these lands. The people here are humble and modest and quiet friendly. But there has been trouble in paradise for many years. The dispute of border with the neighbouring country has caused quiet an unrest in these areas and scarred the beauty of this land. Jammu and Kashmir is suffering under territorial disputes since the independence of India and three major wars have been fought while countless minor disputes erupted since then.

The known history of Jammu and Kashmir dates back to the post Ice age that is when they say the 140 km valley of Kashmir which was a lake back then was drained by an earthquake. In 3rd Century BC Emperor Ashoka transformed this Hindu kingdom to a major Buddist learning Center. Islam arrived into this region in the 13th and 14th century AD. 

The population of southern Kashmir is mainly Hindu and Sikh and its are visited by floods of piligrims. Zanskar is famed for its splendid isolation, the greatest attraction of this majestically mountain-hemmed, rugged Ladakhi-Buddhist valley is the week-long trek in or out. Indeed, when snow blocks Zanskar's one precarious road from Kargil, the only access is on foot along the frozen Zanskar River. Be prepared for cold nights even in summer.

The population of southern Kashmir is mainly Hindu and Sikh and its are visited by floods of piligrims.

FactsPopulation 10.1 million
Area 222,236 sq km
Capitals Srinagar(Summer), Jammu (Winter), Leh (Ladakh)
Main Languages Kashmiri, Urdu, Ladakhi, Hindi, Purig, Balti, Dogri, Punjabi and Pahari.

When to visit May to October(Srinagar), July to early September(Ladakh), December to March (skiing at Gulmarg)

NOTE: Before arriving read a wide range of sources to get a feel of the Situation. The problem is situations could esculate within hours with the intercommunal tempers ever raw, so caution must be maintained. Beware travel insurance policies might be voided if your home governament has issued specific advice against travel here.

 - Murmur meditative mantras in the mural decked gompas of the Indus valley

 - Ladakh's capital Leh is an escape from the daily humdrum of urban life. A peaceful and tranquil place to be.

 - Experience the stark magnificence of Ladakh or Zanskar on an unforgettable high-altitude trek.

 - The relaxed stay in the boat house over the silver sheeted Dal Lake in Kashmir.

 - Gasp at the unbelivebly beautiful valleies of Pangong Tso and the splendid Nubra Valley.


Festivals exclusive to Jammu and Kashmir

Jammu Festival (April, Jammu) three days of eating, drinking and dancing
Sri Amarnath Ji Yatra (Jul-Sep; Amarnath)  Especially in the eve of new moon when thousands of devotees come to venerate the Lord
Vaishno Devi Yatra (early OCt;) Hindu piligrim numbers swarming towards Vaishno Devi reach a climax in early October.

Festivals exclusive to Ladhak & Zanskar

Losar (Dec) Ladhaki New Year, celebrated in Buddhist homes  and gompas with feasts, rituals and dances.

Gu-Stor Rituals and masked dances celebrating the victory of good over evil are celebrated in gompas, including those at the following:

• Spituk
• Karsha
• Korzok
• Thiksey

Dosmoche (wide spread from feb to march) Buddist New year, masked dances, effigies representing the old year are burnt and cast into the desert.
Guru Tse-Chu (feb - mar) Masked dances and predictions of the future by oracles.
Matho Nagrang (Matho) Celebrated by monastry oracles performing blindfolded acrobatics and ritual mutilations.
Yuru Kabgyat (Lamayuru) Monastic masked dances.
Tse- Chu (Hemis) Birthday of the Padmasambhava celebrated for three days. Includes masked dances and the unfurling of Hemis famous three - storey, pearl encrusted painting on cloth called the Thangka.
Phyang Tsedup (jul-aug; Phyang Gompa) Ritual masked chaam dances celebrate the victory of good over evil and of Buddism over preexisting religions. Phyang's gaint thangka is unfurled every third year.
Ladakh Festival (1-15 sep) Unrepentingly touristy but entertaining cycle of events starting with a colourful, carnivalesque parade through Leh, then a repeating program of buddhist dances, polo, archery and music.
Chemrey Thekchhok Festival (nov; Chemrey Thekchhok Gompa) Masked dances and mystic rituals.

Trekking in Zanskar
Trekking is the area's top recreational activity. The area is filled with splendid scenery with its tiny hamlets surrounded by nature. Tents and essential provisions must be carried with you.
Summer Routes- Zanskar to Darcha
- Zanskar to Lamayuru
Winter Route- Chadar Trek